Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always characterized its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – little-known treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to learn these stories and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
